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NORTHCOUNTRY NEWS
~ View From Granite Acres ~
by Jean-Paul & Marsha Downs
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Good day. With the weather hitting highs in the 80’s last week, I hope no one got too carried away with putting heat-loving plants in the gardens. It seems people I talked with, including myself, were getting into the mindset of summer and wanting to plant things that will surely die off with a frost.
Cold crops such as peas, brussel sprouts, cabbage, lettuce, spinach and the like will be fine, but much of anything else, including annuals, will not survive very well. Remember the rule of thumb - Memorial Day. It’s still almost a month away. And between now and then, we will have a frost, no doubt. Plant pansies - be happy.
Now here’s a topic everyone can relate to - tomato loving bugs - especially my own personal favorite, the tomato hornworm. We may as well start right there.
This 4" worm is the largest of tomato insect pests. It lays greenish eggs on the underside of leaves and they hatch in 3-8 days. Larvae feed on leaves, but sometimes fruit, reaching full size after 3-4 weeks. They winter over in pupae stage 3-4" under the ground.
If you see one with small white dots all over it, it is a beneficial wasp egg that parasitizes the worm. At that stage, the worm is done for. It is best at this stage to leave the worm alone, as more of these beneficial wasps will hatch to eradicate more worms off more plants, and not just the tomato hornworm.
If they aren’t infested with beneficial wasp eggs, you can pick them off and get rid of them in your preferred manner. I don’t even like to step on them, as they are just too big. I usually pick the leaf they are on and slice them with a garden tool to do them in. Then I have nightmares about giant worms.
If you have hornworms, you can also use BT, which is a natural pesticide, or dipel. If it is really a bad infestation, rotenone can be used. Or, plant four-o’clocks as a trap crop. Just use any of these caterpillar pesticides carefully, as they are non-discriminating. If you over spray, you may be killing caterpillars of future beneficial pollinators in the butterfly family. That is the problem of pesticides, whether organic or chemical. They kill all caterpillars, regardless of what species it may turn into.
Another tomato lover is the aphid. But for these, there are many natural enemies - ladybugs, lacewings or parasitic wasps. Aphids cause blossom drop, necrotic spots on leaves, leaf roll or stunted growth.
Flea beetles like young transplants. The leaves may look as though it is shot full of holes. The beetle jumps when it is disturbed. Garlic spray should repel them.
Colorado potato beetles - you know those yellow and black striped ones about 1/3" long? They also like the leaves of tomatoes. Their larvae are a dark orange and eggs are yellow - laid on the underside of leaves. Floating row covers until mid-season work very well. You can plant coriander (cilantro) or dill between rows to attract beneficial insects. A thick layer of straw also inhibits the movement of these beetles. If they are severe, spray with canola oil or use BT. All of this also works on potatoes.
If you plant corn near the tomatoes, you could find the European corn borer moving into the tomato rows. BT also works with them.
Then there is always the cutworm. These guys love almost anything that is young, but especially love tomatoes. You have probably found many varieties of young plants cut at ground level. If you dig around the plant, most often, you will find this 1-1 1/2" grayish worm. The best prevention here is cleaning out the garden beds after harvest, rotating crops and pressing tin or cardboard cylinders into the soil around the younger plants.
There are also tomato russet mites. The leaves have a greasy appearance, then turn dry-looking and bronzed. The lower leaves are affected first. These are very small insects that seem to attack older plants. Predatory mites help keep them under control or, as a last measure, use sulfur in spray or dust form.
The key thing here is to remember that tomatoes are related to members of the tobacco family, so are vulnerable to the same diseases and insects. Always clean up any refuse in fall, don’t plant related plants too close to each other, and always rotate crops with good companion plants next to them. These support the growth of the plant and puts space between related plants to help prevent disease or insects to spread easily.
And the View From Granite Acres is the color of lime and red from the young growth of popples and maples - a wonderful combination.....
Send any questions or comments to Standing Stones Farm, PO Box 71, Glencliff, NH 03238, or
email us at graniteacres@earthlink.net.
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© The Northcountry News
PO Box 10, Warren, NH 03279
603-764-5807
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